If there’s one thing I miss about the days when SFR’s offices lived on Marcy Street, it would have to be popping down to the Burrito Company on Washington Avenue for a quick lunch. As I’ve said before, anyplace that’ll put fries inside a burrito is OK in my book, and though I pop back now and again when I’m in the area and peckish, it’s not the same as working around the corner.
Similarly in the miss-that column, I sometimes think about Paseo de Peralta eatery Mucho Gusto. Oh, sure, it’s great that chef Paddy Rawal opened up a new Indian joint in the Harvey Building shopping zone that also houses Video Library, Travel Bug and others—but Much Gusto’s chef Alex Castro held it down over there with delicious Mexican-meets-New-Mexican dishes for a long time, and there’s that Santa Fe thing where we grow accustomed to certain elements and miss them terribly when they’re gone. Not to worry, however, as Castro has popped back up with Burrito Company de Noche, a sort of pop-up experience at the long-running Burrito Company that operates nights Thursday-Sunday each week. I’ve been meaning to get over there for some time, so, like an idiot, I waited for the evening before Indian Market kicked off with insane downtown traffic to wade into the fray in search of Castro’s latest offerings.
The good news? Mucho Gusto fans will find a vibe and taste similar to Castro’s previous project, and it all happens within the Burrito Company’s comfy-casual dining room and/or out on the patio—if you’re like me and ask to sit inside only to regret the decision and beg the hostess for an outdoor table. I’ve always known the Burrito Company staff to be nice, so that was, luckily, not a problem, and it also highlighted one of the biggest selling points for the restaurant in general: It’s in a killer location for people watching, a quick bite, a nice margarita, some tasty tacos or burritos or all of those things. If I were trying to convince an out-of-towner to give Castro’s nighttime menu a try, that would likely be my quick pitch, but then I’d throw in something about how it’s a borderline perfect pitstop before Lensic shows or the Summer Scene series on the bandstand. Assuming Castro will keep it going through the winter, I see his menu offering comforting cold month options like sopas or a stiff drink; who isn’t looking for a quick bite before or after some event, right? Right.
So I lassoed a buddy who constantly complains that I don’t take him to work dinners and leapt into the fray during the restaurant’s happy hour, which runs 5-6:30 pm Thursday-Sunday and features numerous food and drink deals.
Yes, parking downtown is still a whole thing, but Burrito Company de Noche is another restaurant that makes that worth it. Frankly, the yucas fritas on the starter menu might have made it worth it all on their own. Now, this is a dish I’ve rarely seen on a Santa Fe menu unless it’s as a special. If you didn’t know, you can think of yucas fritas like fries, only they’re made from yuca root, or cassava if you prefer, which gives a whole different taste that’s maybe a little bit sweet but familiar enough for even the pickiest eater. Think of the halfway point between a russet and a yam and you get the idea, though the included garlic aioli added a nice little zip and tang. The yucas fritas were a brilliant little amuse for a party of two and fried to a satisfying crisp with just enough on the plate for a party of two to jumpstart their respective palates without spoiling their appetites. Plus, at $7, during happy hour, they felt like a steal.
For our mains, we wanted to go kind of classic. You know—to really lean into the overall experience. As such, my companion opted for the carne asada version of the street taco plate ($17.95, and also available in mushroom and cheese form for vegetarians). Served in corn tortillas from Alicia’s Tortilleria (which we all know are the best around), they were apparently “perfect,” and just what he was looking for. The meat was grilled with the right amount of crisp at the edges while remaining juicy, and Castro’s radish and pickled onion added texture and zest. These particular tacos err on the smaller side, but the value is there for sure. In other words, Castro isn’t trying to stuff his patrons with massive portions so much as he’s showcasing simple flavors that become complex in their interactions.
This went double for my entree, a chicken carnitas special with onion, bell paper and mushrooms smothered in a Veracruz chile sauce of roasted tomato, onion, garlic, mushroom and cilantro ($17.95). I’m far more acquainted with the pork version of carnitas, though Castro’s chicken take was a downright pleasure. If I’m honest, it felt a cut above similar dishes I’d sampled at Mucho Gusto, and each pan-grilled chicken strip became a buttery conveyance for the complex and just-spicy-enough sauce. This one came with a side of Alicia’s corn tortillas, plus black beans, rice and pico de gallo. I built my own little tacos from the ephemera, and I was happy.
Sadly, we didn’t end up with the ability to order dessert (I couldn’t stop eating all the other stuff, so…), but the chocolate ice cream with toffee bits and an Oreo cookie crust did its best to sway us. Burrito Company de Noche also has numerous wines and cocktails for the drinkers, plus quick and friendly service. Castro has only been at this particular venture a short while, but he’s already proven he hasn’t lost a step from his Mucho Gusto days. Given what he did with a special and some yuca root, I’d like to see the project stick around a while, too. Maybe it’s time for folks to play tourist and get down to the Plaza for some tacos. I know I will again, soon.
